Guest Post by Ruth Elayne Kongaika

When we lived in Tonga, visitors often asked us where to find the best sights on our island. Tongatapu undoubtedly has many fine sandy beaches where you can relax and cool off. Plus, depending on what you like to do, here are a few of my favorite suggestions that may whet your appetite.

The Royal Palace: Tonga is the last remaining kingdom in the South Pacific. Only members of the Royal Family live in The Palace, but you can peer through the fence, or see it from the waterfront.  Originally built in 1864, in comparison to other royal homes throughout the world, the Wood Victorian Palace in Tonga is quite humble. It has been the residence of Kings and Queens, and has also been the meeting place for many ambassadors and heads of state. You would really miss a big part of the past and present of the islands if you did not view The Palace. It recently underwent some renovations.

The Ha’amonga: On the northern end of Tongatapu, near Niutoua, you can find the Ha’amonga. It is a trilithon made of coral limestone slabs. It was manually constructed in the 13th century, and is believed to be an entryway into the royal compound of the ruler of that time who was called Tu’itatui. When you walk through the gate and venture a few yards more, you will find a large stone, which is believed to be the monarch's throne. It is curious how the ancients built the Ha’amonga, because of the large size of the stones (about 20 tons each). Of course, there is a legend attached to the structure, as well a real or imagined astronomical connection.

The Blowholes: I have never seen any thing to rival the amazing blowholes in Tonga. We lived not too far away from the village of Houma where they are best seen. When the rolling waves advance, you can hear a whistling as the water is pushed up through air vents in the rocks. The water shoots skyward, and depending on the tide, can be very spectacular. The spray from the blowholes can be observed along the rocky coastline for four miles on a clear day, and the propelled water can reach heights of 30 meters. There are little tide pools that you can carefully venture into, but stay far away from the edge.

The Flying Foxes: My husband’s aunt and several cousins lived in the village of Kolovai, which is known for the bats which are hanging in the ironwood pine trees. Once I understood that these bats, otherwise known as flying foxes, eat only fruit I felt much more at ease. They sleep upside down during the day, and venture out to look for fruit at dusk. I recall one little Tongan boy came up to us calmly holding the tips of the wings of one flying fox so we could see the wingspan. It was quite impressive, since some of them measure three feet across.  In Tonga, flying foxes are considered sacred, and thus they are protected.

‘Anahulu Cave: One of my favorite places to go in Tonga is the ‘Anahulu Cave. It is very close to Mu’a in the village of Haveluliku. There is a freshwater swimming hole in the underground stalactite cave. When we visited the cave, a local family invited us in, and put on a Tongan show for us. You will want to have a strong flashlight and sturdy shoes. Be careful as the rocks can be slippery, and look after your valuables. You can also swim at the beach with the same name as the cave.

Hufangalupe: If you want to see an unforgettable sight, travel to the south coast of Tongatapu to Hufangalupe. It is otherwise known as the “Pigeon’s Doorway”. There are towering cliffs, a natural bridge and a sandy cove. It is near the village of Vaini. Be very careful that you do not go near the edge of the cliff.

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been living in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She enjoys trying to capture the beauty of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu

Guest Post by Ruth Elayne Kongaika

My husband accepted a teaching position, and our new home was at Liahona High School in Tonga. The roads were paved, and there were even sidewalks (unlike neighboring villages). The school was in the middle, with the faculty houses flanking it on both sides. At the rear of the school, there was a large farm where they raised cows and pigs. Roosters and chickens ran wild, and they also raised a vegetable garden. The students of Liahona High School had to spend part of each day working on the plantation or farm to help pay for their tuition and food.

My husband’s parents worked as dorm parents for the girl’s living on campus. We waded through water up to our knees to get to their little apartment. It was the first time I had met my mother-in-law. I briefly met my father-in-law when he had visited the mainland United States. This was the first time both of them had met their little granddaughter, and they instantly fell in love with her. They were so welcoming, and I could see that they were preparing a fine feast for us.

While they were cooking, we were invited to take a rest, which was much needed after the long flight. My husband and I took a nap, while our daughter enjoyed getting to know her grandparents and many cousins. When I awoke, I saw a huge beetle (about two inches long) right in front of my face. There was a flashlight, with a large lamp nearby. I grabbed it, and put it right on top of the beetle, so I could show it to my husband when he arose. When he finally opened his eyes, I proudly picked up the flashlight to reveal what I thought was a rare exotic beetle. He just laughed, and informed me that it was just a cockroach, and that they were all over in Tonga.  I was mortified!  In all my growing up years, I had never seen a cockroach, but had heard that wherever they lived, it was filthy! Later, I realized they thrived in Tonga, because of the warm moist climate.

After the buggy shock wore off, I looked down at my ankles and realized that they were swollen and red.  They felt very itchy. There were a few fat mosquitos swarming around that were filled with my blood. Needless to say, I was not too fond of the “wild life” in Tonga. I later experienced spiders as huge as my hand (they won’t harm you, I was told), centipedes that were a foot long (they will harm you), fleas (to which I found I was allergic), bees, hornets, coconut beetles, walking sticks, plenty of lizards and other creatures. At least there are no snakes in Tonga.

So after my creep-crawly education, we were taken to a table laden with all manner of foods, which I had never laid my eyes on. There were root crops, including taro, ‘ufi (yam), manioke (tapioca), and kumala (sweet potato). I did my best to try everything, and I particularly enjoyed the kumala. There were also tropical fruits including mangos, pineapples, guava, watermelon, passion fruit, lychee, and lesi (papaya).

Most Tongans love mutton, and their favorite is mutton flaps (because they are inexpensive and have plenty of ngako or fat on them). They wrapped mutton flaps in taro leaves, added onions and coconut milk, and baked it. Yummy! They also served New Zealand sausages, chicken, fish and beef. A Tongan feast must have several meats. Often they will have a suckling pig. To top it off, we were served trifle, an island favorite. I was stuffed! I discovered that food is the ultimate gift, and very important in Tonga.

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been living in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She enjoys trying to capture the beauty and wonder of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu